Laut at Union Square is one of New York’s top-rated Malaysian meal-time meccas. Its forte is Pacific Rim, with worthy cooking of Thai and Singaporean fare, as well. The Orang Laut were sea people who earned honor as “good” pirates many centuries ago. The busy, noisy and funky restaurant with colorfully painted brick walls and deliberately unmatched sconces has a large following. Laut’s Assam Laksa is brimming with coconut milk aroma; Satays with spicy peanut sauce and any of the multitude of rice and noodle dishes are on the ambitious menu.