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Malaysian Ayam Kari Debal (Fiery Portuguese Chicken Curry)
by Susheela Raghavan, author of "Flavors of Malaysia" (Hippocrene, August 2010)

Directions

Serves 4 to 5.

Wherever the Portuguese traded or settled, they greatly influenced the local cooking. Debal or ‘devil' curry, so called because of its fiery vinegary taste, is popular with the Kristangs. Growing up I would return from school and quite often see Ma and Mrs. Collar, Ma's Eurasian neighbor pal, enjoying their afternoon chats on our porch. On some days Mrs. Collar would surprise us with her famous fiery debal curry. We could not wait for dinner time!

The Kristangs from the Portuguese settlement located in Melaka (formerly Malacca) traditionally add vinegar, ground mustard, and a mix of fresh chilies and chile powder to give that extra touch of tanginess and heat that they enjoy. The Malay, Chinese, and Nonya influences are prominent, with the use of galangal, lemongrass, cili padi, candlenuts, soy sauce, and sugar. Their use of mustard seeds in a curry is an Indian touch. Curry debal with less heat is also a favorite with the Eurasian community of Malaysia as a whole, and generally is prepared for Christmas meals.

The traditional way of preparing curry debal is to cook it in a seasoned, round-bottomed earthenware or clay pot called a tezaler (in the Cristao language of Kristangs). Traditionally curry debal is served in the tezaler with cooked white rice or bread, mixed vegetables (bredu chapchye), salad, or stir-fried eggplant or okra.   Curry debal will definitely challenge those who desire a fiery flavor. You can lessen or add more heat if you desire.

 

 

Mix chicken with Marinade ingredients and set aside to marinate for about 30 to 60 minutes.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a small skillet and sauté ginger for about ½ to 1 minute; add shallots or onions and chilies and sauté for about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Process Spice Paste ingredients to a smooth paste.

Heat another tablespoon of oil in a wok or skillet and sauté Spice Paste for about 4 to 5 minutes, till fragrant, adding more oil if necessary.

Add mustard seeds, chile powder, and turmeric, and stir for ½ minute.

Stir in marinated chicken and stir for about 2 to 3 minutes, coating well with spice paste.

Add potatoes and water and bring to a boil. Lower heat, add vinegar, sugar, and salt and simmer till chicken and potatoes are done, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Stir in the sautéed ingredients from step 2 and stir another 1 to 2 minutes.

 

Ingredients