Penang’s tasteful decor is just one indication of the restaurant’s attention to detail. The rice dish Nasi Lemak comes with perfectly fluffy coconut rice and tender pieces of chicken stewed in red curry. Water spinach greens (Kang Kong) are sautéed with a judicious hand; tidbits of shrimp paste add the right amount of savory depth. Sambal Ikan, deep-fried anchovies tossed with sauteed onions, gets a rich coating in a sweet tomato sauce. A curry dish with tender chunks of squid, Kari Sotong, is memorable for its bold use of turmeric. For dessert, Penang’s peanut cake is the best in town: their Roti Canai dough is stuffed with finely chopped peanuts; the pancakes drown in browned butter.