It took a Malaysian-born chef to bring the robust appeal of his homeland’s street food to Manhattan’s Gramercy Park neighborhood. Hawkers is a tiny, colorful and informal eating place with a U-shaped bar that almost fills the room. The restaurant is open to the street in warm weather and patrons crowd onto stools to savor popular hawker dishes. True to tradition there are salads, rice or noodle dishes and snacks, including satays. Beyond the satay basics of chicken, beef and tofu, there is Hawkers’ signature dish – the Chicken Satay Burger served two to a roll with peanut chili sauce. Traditionalists frown; tasters love it.