Malaysia’s position at the crossroads of Southeast Asia is mirrored in the melting pot cuisine of Jaya on Baxter Street. Jaya means success or glory, and the glory of carefully harmonizing Malaysian and Chinese cooking accounts for its popularity. Pictures of Malay fruit, from durians to coconuts, and an urban street scene sweeping one wall are counterpoint to white birch trees, teak tables, fish tanks and mod metal chairs. The 150-item menu touches all bases. Vegetarians delight in jicama-stuffed popia rolls, or hair-curling zest in curry mixed vegetables with rice. The roadside style hit Mee Rebus unites egg noodles and shrimp in peanut sauce.